POSTCARD FROM EGYPT

A living portal into the origins of civilization, where history rises from the earth in golden stone and the air is thick with stories that have echoed across millennia. Here, you walk in the shadows of pyramids that defy time, float along the Nile as the ancients once did, and stand before temples carved with such precision and power, it’s impossible not to feel something stir deep in your chest.

But Egypt is more than monuments—it’s a symphony of contrasts.

OUR JOURNEY THROUGH EGYPT

Sharm El-Sheikh

For as long as I can remember, Egypt has lived in my imagination—a place of myth and wonder, always slightly out of reach. So when the trip finally came together, it felt only right that it began in a way that surprised me completely. We touched down in Sharm El Sheikh, often known for its sprawling resorts and packaged vacations—not exactly my usual scene. But our stay at the Four Seasons quietly challenged every preconceived notion I had.

While I typically shy away from large hotels, this one felt more like a grand coastal estate than a resort. Winding paths led to quiet terraces, and despite its scale, we managed to find serene corners of solitude throughout the property. But the real draw here lies just offshore: some of the best diving in the world, hiding in plain sight beneath the surface of the Red Sea.

Sharm el-Sheik is a haven for divers, and it's easy to see why. The reefs here are kaleidoscopic and shockingly alive—vibrant coral gardens teeming with life, schools of technicolor fish, and the kind of underwater drama that feels untouched by time. With the Four Seasons’ in-house diving school, stepping into this aquatic world was seamless. Whether you're a first-time diver or looking to log more advanced dives, there’s no better launchpad.

If anything, our only regret was not staying longer. The Red Sea has a reputation for revealing itself slowly—with dive sites that feel undiscovered, and an underwater topography that promises adventure beyond the well-trodden. Like so much of Egypt, Sharm El Sheikh offers layers waiting to be explored—both above and below the surface.

CAIRO

Cairo is a city that doesn’t ease you in—it sweeps you up. A chaotic symphony of horns, heat, and motion, where ancient relics sit shoulder to shoulder with modern sprawl. Even with years of travel under my belt, I wasn’t prepared for its intensity. The traffic seems to operate on instinct rather than rules, with people and cars weaving through space like they’re part of some unspoken choreography. Everything is layered in a fine coat of dust—like a veil that belongs there, softening the sharp edges of a place that has witnessed millennia.

We arrived during Ramadan, a time of deep spiritual reflection and daily rhythms unlike anything I’d experienced before. Until sunset, the city holds its breath—quiet in its restraint. But as the call to prayer echoes and the fast is broken, Cairo transforms. The streets erupt in joy. Vendors open their stalls, families gather over sprawling meals, and the scent of grilled meats, spices, and sweets lingers in the warm air. Wandering through the city at night felt like walking through a celebration—a communal exhale after a day of devotion. It was the kind of cultural immersion that feels accidental in the best way, like stumbling into something sacred and alive.

One of the most breathtaking parts of our visit was the Grand Egyptian Museum. Even in its unfinished state, the building is a masterpiece—an architectural homage to the stories it holds inside. Designed by Heneghan Peng Architects, it’s vast and reverent, a structure that feels worthy of housing the soul of a civilization. With our expert Egyptologist leading the way, the past unraveled before us in glinting relics and carved stone—tales of pharaohs and gods, tombs and explorers. It’s the kind of place that demands days, not hours, but even our abbreviated visit stirred a sense of awe I couldn’t shake.

Of course, no visit to Cairo is complete without a pilgrimage to the Pyramids of Giza. And no, the photos don’t do them justice. Nothing prepares you for their scale. They rise from the desert like something summoned rather than built, with a symmetry and precision that feels almost otherworldly. While the site has grown commercial—with touts and camels and souvenir sellers at every turn—it somehow doesn’t matter. Stand before them, and you’ll still feel the magnitude of their mystery. The weight of their silence. The wonder of what it took to raise them.

Cairo is not an easy city—but that’s part of its charm. It challenges you to find beauty in the dust, rhythm in the noise, and reverence in the chaos. It’s a city that forces you to let go of control and lean into the unpredictability of a place where past and present crash into each other at full speed.

THE NILE CRUISE

While I typically avoid cruises like the plague, sailing down the Nile on a small, sleek vessel turned out to be one of the most magical experiences of the entire trip. It’s not just travel—it’s time travel, with the river itself as your guide.

We boarded the Aqua, an elegant ship with only eight suites, which made the experience feel intimate and exclusive—as if we were modern-day pharaohs drifting through history in understated luxury. From the sundeck, the banks of the Nile unfolded like a living scroll: palms swaying, farmers tilling fields by hand, temples rising from the sand. It was as though we were gliding through the heart of a forgotten world.

Each day delivered a new chapter of discovery. With our expert Egyptologist—part storyteller, part scholar—we explored wonders like Philae Temple, serenely situated on an island and dedicated to Isis, and the Valley of the Kings, where the tombs of great pharaohs are painted with celestial maps and secrets. At Kom Ombo, we wandered through a dual temple dedicated to both Sobek the crocodile god and Horus the falcon, marveling at ancient surgical tools etched in stone—evidence of medical advancements that rival our own.

What struck me most was the pace. Unlike land travel, the rhythm of river life is slow, intentional. There’s time to absorb, to reflect, to dream. We passed golden cliffs and green fields, watched village children wave from the shore, and listened as call to prayer echoed across the water. Our Egyptologist shared that new archaeological sites are being discovered constantly, so quickly that the government can’t keep up with excavations. Egypt is still revealing itself.

Evenings were their own kind of wonder. We dined al fresco under the stars, each meal a refined celebration of Egyptian flavors—freshly grilled meats, cumin-laced vegetables, flaky pastries, and local dates. Some nights brought live performances: traditional Nubian music, whirling dervishes, or storytelling that pulled us deeper into the mysteries of the land. There was something poetic about sitting on the deck, wind brushing your skin, while history danced before your eyes.

The Nile is not just a river—it’s a lifeline, a myth, a mirror. Sailing its length allows you to experience Egypt the way it was always meant to be seen: from the water, where kingdoms once rose and fell, and where, even now, the soul of the country flows.

AL-MOUDIRA HOTEL

I’ve always had a soft spot for hotels that transcend the idea of a place to sleep—those rare properties that merge design, culture, and soul into something entirely transportive. Al Moudira is one of them. Set on the West Bank of the Nile in Luxor, it feels less like a hotel and more like a mirage conjured by a dreamer. And in many ways, it is.

Al Moudira is the vision—and obsession—of Zeina Aboukheir, an Italian-Lebanese photographer and jewelry designer whose eclectic sensibility and reverence for storytelling permeate every inch of the estate. Drawn to the stillness and majesty of Luxor’s desert fringe, Zeina worked with local artisans and architect Olivier Sednaoui to build her version of an Egyptian palace: a sprawling, golden-hued sanctuary that fuses Ottoman, North African, and Mediterranean influences. The result is a property that feels like it was always meant to be there—aged into the land rather than imposed upon it.

The rooms are, in a word, otherworldly. Each of the 54 suites is a universe unto itself, no two alike. One may have a star-studded ceiling inspired by celestial tombs, another a freestanding marble tub surrounded by hand-painted murals. Antique Syrian mirrors, Mashrabiya woodwork, vaulted domes, and inlaid tile mosaics give every room a tactile richness that invites you to slow down and notice. Some suites open onto private courtyards fragrant with jasmine, while others feel like the inner sanctum of a sultan’s retreat—layered, storied, intimate.

But Al Moudira is more than just a beautifully dressed shell—it’s alive. Beyond the bougainvillea-covered walls, you’ll find an organic, regenerative farm pulsing with purpose: ostriches, donkeys, chickens, and cows all coexisting within a system that sustains the hotel’s kitchens and values. It’s a nod to the rhythm of the land, where hospitality meets stewardship. The hotel also houses artisanal workshops, including a hand papermaking studio, where guests can witness ancient crafts in motion and try their hand at a centuries-old technique.

The magic doesn’t stop there. On weekends, guests can ride in vintage cars—restored classics that feel straight out of a 1940s Egyptian film—as they cruise the nearby desert or explore Luxor’s archaeological wonders. There’s a sense of pageantry, of play, that permeates even the smallest details—from the curated boutique stocked with Egypt’s most talented contemporary designers, to the disco room, a tiled, mood-lit invitation to dance beneath the stars of your own private palace.

Al Moudira isn’t trying to be a five-star hotel. It’s more personal than that. It’s the layered, textured mind of its founder brought to life—sensual, mysterious, deeply intentional. It’s a place for artists and seekers, for wanderers who crave beauty, meaning, and a bit of mischief.

If you're looking for a place to disappear and be creatively reawakened, this is your sanctuary.

HONORABLE ACCOLADES

Not everything fit neatly into our itinerary—but some places and brands deserve a spotlight all their own.

These are the names and spaces I’ll return to, shop from again, or dream about until I’m back in the land of pharaohs and palm-lined oases.

Adrère Amellal

A true desert reverie. Though I didn’t make it there this time, this ethereal eco-lodge carved into the sands of Siwa remains at the top of my return list. Off-grid, otherworldly, unforgettable.

Nour El Nil

Once the floating home of a prince, this vessel is a poetic nod to Egypt’s golden age. Elegant, intimate, and effortlessly timeless—if I did it all over again, I’d sail with them.

ANŪT

A soulful lifestyle brand bringing Egypt’s artisanal heritage into the modern home. Think hand-embroidered linens, ceramics with meaning, and a reverence for tradition in every detail.

Malaika Linens

The gold standard for Egyptian cotton. Their dreamy hand-finished linens and thoughtful accessories make them a must for any design lover—don’t leave the country without something in your suitcase.